Posts Tagged ‘Paris’
Ma Friandise Favorite à La Maison du Chocolat
This month marks the beginning of my favorite time of year: marrons glacés season. Unquestionably my favorite confection, these delicious glazed chestnuts are only available from November to March. And while they originated in Italy, I discovered them in Paris and always associate them with holidays in France. Continue Reading
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CommentCatching Up With The Sartorialist
It’s been a while since I’ve shared favorite photos from The Sartorialist. (Yes, I know, it’s been a while since I’ve shared much of anything. I’m working on that.) Continue Reading
Rouge Awakening #8 – Robe Rouge
I’ve had Paris on the brain lately, what with The Moment’s announcement of Jewish real estate mogul Alfred Akirov’s purchase and planned renovation of the storied Hôtel Lutetia (where I spent my birthday the last time I was in Paris), Amy Thomas’ article in this Sunday’s Times Travel Section about her impressions of a “real” Paris gleaned from her experience living her Parisian dream, and the fact that I have literally been dreaming about Paris for weeks. This morning, eking out the last of my precious store of Robe Rouge, my decision was made – it’s time to go to Paris. To stock up on tea if nothing else.

Robe Rouge is actually a Chinese blue tea from the august Parisian tea house Mariage Frères.
“Red Gown”, called Da Hong Pao on Wu Yi Mountain where it is grown, is extremely rare.
A tiny estate on a steep slope with sandy soil near a spring provides the tea bushes with morning sun but protects them with cool afternoon shade. The tender buds with red reflections thus benefit from ideal conditions, enhancing all their qualities.
Just after picking, leaves undergo a bold oxidation that releases a highly woody taste specific to the soil. Its thick, concentrated liquor and its grand aroma, halfway between chestnut and hazelnut, last long in the mouth.A masterpiece envied by connoisseurs the world over, it has been valued since the Ming dynasty for allegedly favouring a long life.
At 75 euros per 100 grams (roughly 3.5 ounces), Robe Rouge is precious indeed, and I have tried to make my tiny packet last as long as possible.
Mariage Frères is one of my favorite places to visit when I’m in Paris. While their flagship is in the Marais on the rue du Bourg-Tibourg and they have several tea salons and emporiums throughout the city, I prefer to visit the location at 13 rue des Grands-Augustins, a charming, authentic 17th-century building on the Left Bank. On the second floor there is an open, airy tea salon and restaurant – a marvelous place to pause for an afternoon snack after a day of wandering the city. Downstairs is the tea apothecary, which is absolutely magical with its rows of tea canisters and collection of all sorts of treasures related to tea. On my next visit I will be sure to have a fat enough wallet so that I can bring home one of their exquisite tea pots. I’ve never seen anything like them.
If you go, whichever location you decide to visit, you should try the delicious pastries and tea sandwiches and get yourself a copy of The French Art of Tea. Not only does the book tell the story of the history of Nicolas Mariage and the founding of his tea company, but it is a catalog of their teas, complete with detailed descriptions and brewing instructions. And you absolutely, absolutely must buy tea. There are some that you can’t get anywhere but the Mariage Frères tea apothecary, and you will be hard pressed to choose among the abundant selection and exotic varieties. But the lovely people at Mariage Frères are kind, knowledgeable and very patient.
Calendar of Chaos – Day Twenty-One
Since today is Winter Solstice, what could be better as today’s Advent Calendar treat than Bûche de Noël?

This well-known French pastry finds its origins in the ancient Celtic tradition of the Yule Log.
The burning of the Yule Log was among the numerous fire traditions observed at Winter Solstice. The Celts believed that the Sun was reborn at Winter Solstice and they lit a large log of Oak or Ash to offer their thanks to the Sun for returning to the Earth. The burned remains of the Yule Log were thought to guard a home against fire and lightning and the ashes were sprinkled on the surrounding fields to ensure good luck for the coming year’s harvest. The largest remaining part of the log was kept safe to kindle next year’s fire.
During the Middle Ages the logs and the ceremony of the burning log became more festive and detailed. The logs themselves would be decorated with ribbons and greenery, then the youngest and the oldest member of each family would carry the log to the hearth and set it in flames to burn for the whole night. Over time, people burnt smaller logs and finally the tradition evolved to become a delicious dessert that symbolized the Yule Logs of the past and was served to guests as a treasured part of holiday celebrations.
A famous legend behind the Bûche de Noël is that Napoleon Bonaparte issued a proclamation that houses in Paris had to keep their chimneys closed during the winter because of the cool air that caused medical problems (this seems silly to me, how would they keep warm, but whatever). Prohibited from using their fireplaces to burn the traditional Yule Log, ingenious Parisian bakers invented this dessert as a symbolic substitution around which the family could gather for story-telling and other holiday happiness.
Whether the legend is true or not, it certainly is true that the Bûche de Noël has become a holiday staple loved the world over. Even more than its cousin the Gingerbread House, which is more for show than for eating, pastry chefs and home bakers alike devote much attention to creating the most beautiful, most delicious Bûche de Noël as a centerpiece for holiday celebrations.
The Bûche de Noël has also become something of an art form, with pastry chefs riffing on the traditional log to create masterpieces of cake and frosting.
Traditionally a log-shaped dessert made from chocolate-frosted Génoise cake filled with chocolate buttercream, the modern bûche now encompasses everything from expensive designer offerings with rich mousse fillings and coated in a luxurious ganache, to ice-cream cake variations, or elegant, single-serving mini-bûches. Paris patisseries compete annually to feature the most fashionable, creative, and chic buches, often commissioning famous designers and visual artists to create limited edition cakes that can sell for as much as 150 euros.
This comes from Dennis Cooper’s 3rd Annual Bûche de Noël Pageant. He found some great examples of French designer versions. Here are a few of my favorites:

Fauchon

Christian Lacroix for Lenôtre

Dalloyau

Michalak for Hôtel Plaza Athénée

Olivier Bajard

And last but not least, Alexis Mabille for, whom else, Angelina.
Calendar of Chaos – Day Twenty

It’s snowing and I’m thinking of hot chocolate. The best hot chocolate in the world? At Angelina in Paris. Luxuriously thick and bittersweet, their signature hot chocolate is called chocolate L’Africain.
Travel + Leisure compiled their recommendations for where in the world to find the best hot chocolate in their recent holiday issue, but Angelina will aways be my personal favorite. (A quick Google search reveals that I’m far from alone in this assessment.)
Right next to the Hôtel Meurice on the Rue de Rivoli, Angelina serves not only amazing hot chocolate but every sort of pastry and sweet imaginable, including the incredible Mont Blanc gateau, which is a nest of piped paste made from crushed marrons glacés filled with custard creme.
I doubt anyone could have Angelina’s hot chocolate and a Mont Blanc in one sitting, but it would be delicious to try!
Crazy for Cacharel
I fell in love with Cacharel over a floral coat I found in a Fillmore Street boutique years ago. Most people in the US are oblivious to this lovely French label, but every time I wear this coat I get raves. Whenever I go to Paris I bring back whatever I can afford at the time (last visit it was a scarf).
So, imagine my delight when I discovered that Neiman Marcus is offering a small selection of Cacharel for Fall. Compared to the actual Automne/Hiver 2010 collection this is boring indeed – they don’t even appear in the Cacharel look book – but still. Coming to a shop near me…
If I am able to get to Paris as hoped, these are the pieces I would want to bring back:



Hôtel, Je t’aime
Paris is my absolute favorite place on the planet. It’s been a while since my last trip and I miss it terribly, so I’ve been thinking that this Fall would be a good time to take a few days to visit. To stroll the blessedly tourist-light streets, have breakfast at my favorite sidewalk cafe and watch the world go by, take tea at Mariage Freres, buy ballet flats at Repetto, indulge in macarons at Ladurée and marrons glacés at Maison du Chocolat, look at modern art at the Centre Pompidou. As if the attraction of the city itself weren’t enough inducement, T Magazine introduced me to Le Pavillon des Lettres in a recent post about new boutique hotels around the world:
Opening this fall in Paris, Le Pavillon des Lettres is a sister property of Le Pavillon de la Reine in the Marais, but with a literary theme. The designer Didier Benderli gave each of the 26 rooms a letter of the alphabet. Room H has text by Victor Hugo (get it?) stenciled on the wall. For English translations, boot up the room’s dedicated iPad.
They had me at literary theme. Reminiscent of the Hotel Rex in San Francisco, which was inspired by the art and literary salons of the 1920′s and 1930′s, le Pavillon des Lettres is a sensual treat and a bibliophile’s dream. According to the hotel’s website, le Pavillon des Lettres marries art, literature, aesthetics and interior design to create an homage to the great talents of French and international literature. The writers for whom the rooms are names are Andersen, Baudelaire, Calderon, Diderot, Eschyle, Flaubert, Goethe, Hugo, Ibsen, James, Kafka, La Fontaine, Musset, Nerval, Ovide, Proust, Queiroz, Rousseau, Shakespeare, Tolstoi, Urfe, Voltaire, Woolf, Xenophon, Yeats, and Zola. Choose your literary mood and choose your room!

A tranquil retreat in the center of a busy neighborhood, the hotel exudes all of the elegant luxury and understated charm of a Parisian mansion home. And its proximity to les Champs-Élysées, la Place de la Concord and la rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré makes it the perfect portal to Parisian fashion and trends, nestled amongst the best galleries and shopping the Rive Droit has to offer.

While I generally tend to prefer the other side of the river, this time I would gladly make an exception to be able to enjoy this wonderful new hotel. Drinks at Le Meurice; dinner in the Marais. No, that would not suck.
A bientôt!

My name is Angela Eloise and I am a freelance writer. That sounds as if I am copping to an addiction. I am. In addition to writing this blog, I also write a column about social media and I am at work on a series of essays that I hope to see in print some day. Cloud of Chaos was born from my desire to dance with the absurdity of life, to create a space where I could write and share all of the gorgeous, fun, snarky deliciousness I find spinning around me every day. What does a spinning cloud of chaos have to do with writing? Everything, as it turns out.














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